
Prada – Spring 2027
I think Prada is at its most interesting when it refuses to give you the answer straight away.
You see something. You think you understand it. Then you look again and — oh. No. There’s something else happening underneath.
And that feeling runs through this collection almost obsessively.
Burberry – Spring 2027
I think I finally understand what Daniel Lee is doing at Burberry.
And honestly, it took me a minute.
Because Burberry has always been very good at being Burberry. The trench. The check. The Britishness. The rain. The countryside. The whole beautifully organised fantasy of looking effortlessly put together while secretly carrying seventeen things in your bag and probably being late for something.
But this season felt different.
A little messier. A little stranger. A little more alive.
And OH MY GOD, the colour.

McQueen – Spring 2027
I have a problem with Alexander McQueen.
I keep looking at the pictures.
Not in the normal scroll, like, save, move on way. I mean properly looking. Going back. Zooming in. Staring at that horn. Looking at the satin. Looking at the ridiculous volume of that skirt and thinking, okay, but why does this actually make sense?

Roksanda Ilincic – Spring 2027
I have a confession: for the first few looks, I thought Roksanda was trying to behave.
And I mean that affectionately.
There was something almost suspiciously controlled about it. Black tailoring. Soft ivory. Muted beige. Clean trousers. Sharp shoulders. A little scarf here, a glove there. Everything beautifully contained, beautifully disciplined. The sort of clothes that make you stand up slightly straighter without quite knowing why.
And then suddenly — colour.
Then fringe.
Then those enormous sculptural hips.
And I thought: OH. There you are.
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