Over the past few weeks, Sabato De Sarno’s inaugural Gucci collection has begun its journey to stores and beyond. During a recent meeting at the brand’s headquarters, he observed a woman at an art gallery wearing the lime green coat adorned with crystal fringes from the previous season—a statement piece priced at a staggering 27,000 euros. Curious, he contacted his press team to inquire whether it had been loaned to her, only to discover that she had actually purchased it. De Sarno expressed his delight: ‘I love my collection, and witnessing others appreciate it brings me immense joy.’

Last September, De Sarno unveiled his concise and alluring vision for the new Gucci, departing from the brand’s recent eccentricity in favor of a more streamlined aesthetic rooted in what he termed ‘wardrobe essentials.’ Despite the soundtrack’s suggestion of a ‘reset,’ De Sarno clarified that it was merely a song he enjoyed dancing to. During the preview, he challenged himself to blend ‘what he dislikes with what he loves’ to create something novel. The opening coats featured dégradé paillettes (a departure from embroidery), while a narrow bustier dress and a hip-grazing tunic were crafted from double-face wool cashmere in a shade of green playfully dubbed ‘rotten’ by his studio team. The slip dresses showcased a vaguely Prada-esque graphic, subtly woven into a jacquard pattern on a caban—a heron, if one looked closely enough.

“In the final analysis, the ‘subversive gestures’ promised in the press notes were not prominently evident. This collection was an evolution, building upon the framework established in the previous round. The opening ensemble featured a shorts suit—a neatly tailored jacket buttoned up to the neck, accentuated by a slim belt at the waist, and paired with over-the-knee riding boots. The minimalist aesthetic echoed De Sarno’s debut. Last season’s mini slips made a comeback, now refashioned into midi lengths, complemented by high-rise double-G briefs. An exquisite long-sleeve black lace dress maintained the same graceful silhouette. The slingback platforms took inspiration from the popular loafers in De Sarno’s launch collection.

De Sarno boldly declared, ‘I don’t adhere to themes—ever. My focus is on the clothes.’ However, one wonders if this approach suffices for a brand as monumental as Gucci. De Sarno’s technical finesse shines through—the mustard peacoat, with its covered placket at the back, could be buttoned all the way up to the collar, embracing the wearer’s body. Looking ahead, his challenge lies in thinking expansively, both creatively and strategically. Perhaps it starts with a simple question: What do his Gucci pants entail?