Jil Sander, under the creative direction of Luke and Lucie Meier, sought to evoke an “enveloping feeling” in their Fall collection. The designers’ quest for softness is understandable, especially given the tumultuous times we live in. When asked for specifics, Lucie posed a rhetorical question: “Who doesn’t appreciate comfort?” Indeed, this instinct guided their design choices.

The collection featured rounded silhouettes, double-face construction, and padded down coats reminiscent of pool inflatables and quilted bedspreads. Even the tailoring, which traditionally adhered to Jil Sander’s minimal and sharp aesthetic from the 1990s, embraced curves. Swishy suits in vibrant red, celadon green, and chocolate brown opened the show, providing a refreshing departure from the ubiquitous gray and black. Cape coats with infinity hems added to the sense of ease.

Rich textures played a significant role, enhancing a feeling of nestling and cocooning. However, the reliance on diamond quilting occasionally veered into excess. And let’s be honest—the furry shoes worn by some models might not be practical for everyday wear. The styling, overall, could have been toned down a notch or two, as the over-ornamentation occasionally detracted from the serene and nurturing vibe the Meiers aimed to create.

Amidst these considerations, standout pieces included openwork crochet in bouclé wool and mohair for tops and skirts. These garments promised dreamlike comfort. 

Additionally, reversible knit pieces resembled shaggy shearling when viewed from the opposite side. Lucie summed it up: “We appreciate the blurring of silhouettes, a softening of lines.”

The musical backdrop for the show was provided by Mk.gee, a 26-year-old artist from New Jersey with a debut album—a fitting atmospheric accompaniment to Jil Sander’s vision.