Just three weeks and two days ago, Adrian Appiolaza stepped into the role of creative director at Moschino. His arrival, however, is tinged with sadness due to the sudden passing of his predecessor, Davide Renne, shortly after assuming the position. Taking over in such delicate circumstances, Appiolaza has committed himself to Franco Moschino’s legacy.

Reflecting on this intense journey, Appiolaza shared, “My first instinct upon accepting this opportunity was to immerse myself in Franco’s universe and bring it into the present. I delved into the archives, carefully selecting iconic elements associated with Franco.”

This new era of Moschino marks a significant departure from the tenure of Jeremy Scott, who led the label for nearly a decade before departing last March. While Scott was dubbed “the king of camp” for his unwavering thematic approach, Appiolaza, an Argentinian designer, takes a broader perspective. His debut collection revives many of Moschino’s signature features: the iconic cloud print from 1985, a smiley face borrowed from a yellow blazer in the Costume Institute’s permanent collection, and a white-and-black tweed skirt suit with a nod to Coco Chanel. Additionally, slogan pieces promoting love and peace play a prominent role. Notably, the peace sweater dress stands out for the way the model’s head emerges from the fabric.

Appiolaza’s vision combines reverence for the past with a fresh, expansive outlook—a fitting tribute to both the brand’s heritage and its future.

Amidst the cherished house memories, Adrian Appiolaza introduced what he aptly called “characters.” These figures were attired in an intriguing blend of eccentricity and authenticity. Drawing inspiration from the late founder, Franco Moschino, Appiolaza embraced the mantra: “Wear what you want, not what you should.” His mission? To maintain the brand’s theatrical flair while infusing it with a more harmonious sensibility.

Appiolaza, who recently transitioned from Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe, brings a wealth of experience from his tenure at fashion houses like Chloé, Miu Miu, and Louis Vuitton. His grasp of eccentric realness is evident in the collection. Deconstructed tailoring, stonewashed denim, and knits—some shrunken, others enlarged—take center stage. Intricately embroidered details adorn the backs of these garments, adding an artistic touch.

In a bold move, Appiolaza showcased the collection on one of Milan’s rare gender-diverse runways. The result? A tantalizing promise of what’s to come. As we eagerly await a full season under his creative direction, we wonder: Where will Appiolaza lead Moschino next? The intrigue is palpable.