Before the Tom Ford show commenced, darkness enveloped the venue. The haunting strains of the end titles music from “Basic Instinct” played on repeat (at least, that’s what Shazam informed me). In the front row sat none other than Sharon Stone herself, flanked by Uma Thurman, Eva Green, Sam Claflin, Dominic Sessa, and Callum Turner. The paparazzi couldn’t get their fill of these luminaries, and it seemed fitting.

Peter Hawkings, now in his second season at Tom Ford, crafts fashion that seeks to ignite passion. His eveningwear, in particular, is meticulously designed with an eye toward the spotlight. Having spent decades working closely with the brand’s founder, Hawkings possesses an intimate understanding of its aesthetic—perhaps better than anyone else. This season, his mission is to break free from the past and carve out his own distinctive mark as he moves forward.

Hawkings kicked off the show by showcasing a series of military-inflected coats and jackets, along with a romper suit adorned with brass buttons. He emphasized that these pieces were custom-designed for the label, and all the fabrics used were exclusive to the collection. The military-inspired ensembles are not only well-executed but are likely to resonate far beyond the celebrity attendees present tonight.

Unlike Ford, who reveled in excess and dared to push boundaries before selling the brand, Hawkings has scrubbed away that provocative edge. His Tom Ford creations remain undeniably sexy, albeit in a safer manner. Even the daring crystal mesh flapper dress and see-through catsuits don’t veer into the scandalous territory. Perhaps it’s the Vanilla Sex to Ford’s Rose Prick—a comparison subtly hinted at by the new fragrance accompanying the invitations.

While Peter Hawkings initially specialized in menswear under Tom Ford, his prowess in women’s tailoring took center stage in the new collection, just as it did during his debut. In the previous season, he paid homage to Ford’s Gucci era by featuring sumptuous velvet smokings. However, this time, Hawkings shifted focus to three-piece suits. These suits boasted wide-lapeled jackets, snug waistcoats, and high-waisted pants that lovingly embraced the curves—hugging the bum and wrapping around the thigh—before cascading gracefully to the hem. The color palette ranged from silvery gray to pinstripes and vivid purple. Hawkings emphasized that impeccable fit was paramount to him, and indeed, it was evident in every meticulously crafted ensemble.