Paris has been abuzz all week with discussions about the vacant creative-director position at Givenchy. Names have been tossed around, and everyone is curious about the timeline. Interestingly, the responsibility for this collection lies with the studio team. Givenchy has seen a revolving door of designers over the past decade—Riccardo Tisci, Clare Waight Keller, and Matthew M. Williams—leaving the audience somewhat adrift in understanding what Hubert de Givenchy truly represents. However, this isn’t a dilemma faced by the in-house designers.

The runway show commenced on a promising note: a cocktail dress adorned with densely embroidered silver beads, its narrow train trailing elegantly. This served as a gentle reminder that Givenchy boasts a couture atelier. Subsequently, the collection unfolded, revealing a refined yet audacious array of elegant tailored suits and evening dresses. The former featured fabric-covered buttons and a pinkie ring gracefully threaded through a lapel buttonhole. The latter, drawing inspiration from the house archives, showcased subtle yet captivating details—a swoop of fabric at the neckline or across the back. Some dresses even embraced a draped, doubled waistline, evoking the distinctive basque silhouette reminiscent of the founder’s era.

The coats adhered to Givenchy’s polished, classic codes, following a familiar playbook. (Interestingly, the men’s collection presented in January took a significantly more irreverent approach.) Among the coats, a double-breasted beetle-backed trench stood out as the epitome of contemporary style, turning heads as it graced the runway. While a new creative director might eventually redefine the house’s history, for now, this collection is poised to find its place in the market—a testament to the enduring allure of Givenchy.