Dries Van Noten gave his show a name: The Woman Who Dares to Cut Her Own Fringe. “This means for me audacity, but also considered… She is in one way really tender but also very strong.” This too: “It’s about style and not so much about fashion.”

For nearly four decades, Dries Van Noten has epitomised style over mere fashion. His collections consistently stand out across seasons, defying convention by artfully blending unexpected elements. Picture florals harmonising with army fatigues or, in the case of Fall 2024, grey marl sweatshirt fabric juxtaposed with iridescent sequins, and lavender silk duchess paired with faded denim jeans.

The runway show commenced with a camel coat – double-breasted, featuring a stand-up collar and rounded sleeves. Its seemingly neutral minimalism, however, concealed a delightful surprise. Amidst the excellent dark suits, a vibrant palette emerged, often in daring combinations or trios. Van Noten fearlessly experimented with textures, introducing everything from shaggy fur-like mohairs to tinselly metallics. His approach? Trial and error. Rejecting rigid systems, he embraced spontaneity, emphasising that breaking the rules was the only rule worth following. 

Dries Van Noten, ever the champion of spontaneity, orchestrated a captivating blend of unconventional style choices. Zip-up hoodies graced the runway, their sleeves casually pushed off, wrapped around necks like scarves. Button-down shirts, worn back-to-front, collars discreetly tucked beneath stretchy nylon tops, added to the offbeat allure. But beyond the surface, Van Noten emphasised a crucial principle: each garment must stand independently. It’s not merely about looking good as part of an ensemble; every piece must hold its intrinsic value.

While his signature prints and embroideries took a step back, they weren’t entirely absent. Clusters of crystal fringe transformed black trousers into festive party pants. Unexpectedly, they also adorned a smart checked suit. Van Noten’s muse, the enigmatic “she,” defied conventions, seamlessly blending daywear with evening-wear, high with low. The models’ long, fringy bangs, nearly veiling their eyes, stood as the sole uniform element in this boundary-pushing show. Few of his peers, facing similar milestones, can claim such audacity.