An editor made an appearance at Nicolas Ghesquière’s 10th anniversary Louis Vuitton show in Paris, clad in an ensemble from his fall 2014 debut. The only missing piece was the Petite Malle mini-trunk bag he introduced that season. She confidently declared, “It still works; it hasn’t aged.” 

A group of women gathered around her, admiring the instantly recognizable elements: the A-line leather jacket, round-collar blouse, sweater vest, and black patent pants—a distinctive style that few other designers can claim. Interestingly, a decade ago, only a handful of designers at Europe’s top brands held their current positions. Amidst today’s ever-changing landscape of creative directors, this ten-year milestone stands out.

During that inaugural show in February 2014, Ghesquière left a typewritten note for all guests, expressing the “immense joy” of a fresh start. Fast forward to tonight, where a similar letter graced all 4,000-or-so seats, including many company employees. Ghesquière acknowledged, “This joy persists. Ten years later, this evening marks a new dawn.” The deliberate parallel between the two messages hints at reflection. As strong as Ghesquière’s design language is, the references in his current collection were discernible, even if they deviated from the original line-for-line.

The jackets, intricately embroidered with metallic threads and adorned with cabochon stones, evoked memories of the Louis XVI frock coats from the spring 2018 collection, presented in the medieval section of the Louvre. Meanwhile, the sparkling skirts that playfully grazed the knees seemed reminiscent of spring 2021—a pandemic-era show staged without an audience. Lastly, the swirling, asymmetric hems on the fringed evening numbers transported us back to the deconstructed scuba-suit dresses from his resort 2017 show in Rio. Ghesquière’s journey through time and style continues to captivate. 

Over the years, Nicolas Ghesquière has consistently woven the savoir-faire of the house and its deep-rooted connection to travel into the very fabric of his work. These foundational themes were prominently featured in his latest collection. Sculptural minidresses, adorned with photo-printed classic trunks, stood out alongside the glamorous leisure of plane-ready tracksuits and jackets, complete with tech-infused performance details. Notably, this collection also paid homage to Ghesquière’s enduring love for science fiction.

Despite incorporating all the signature Nicolas Ghesquière elements, the collection managed to avoid feeling overly nostalgic. This departure from the past was a welcome relief, especially considering the prevalence of repetitive designs among seasoned designers this season. What sets Ghesquière apart is his ability to look back without being trapped by it—he deftly conjures a future that remains fresh and forward-thinking.