Hermes FW/24: Born to Be Wild and Rich

The Hermès fall collection took inspiration from two thrilling riding sports: horses and motorbikes, as shared by creative director Nadège Vanhee. While she personally favors the safety of a bicycle, she delved into the parallel motifs with enthusiasm. The runway setting shifted from last season’s grassy meadow to a sleek black stage, reminiscent of wet nighttime streets in movies. As if scripted, the rain began during the show—Hermès truly creates its own weather.

Vanhee’s Bikeuse Équestre approach constructs outfits from scratch. Pointy-toe cowboy boots complement cropped, flared stretch leather pants, while knee-high moto boots with side zips pair effortlessly with skirts and dresses. Editors buzzed about these styles, which, though likely as pricey as a motorcycle (or at least a fancy bike), exude timeless quality.

While Hermès’s elite clientele may not need to crunch numbers, Vanhee keeps practicality in mind during her design process. The collection features investment-worthy leather outerwear, including cabans with shearling shawl collars, fitted equestrian jackets, and a standout piece—an embroidered jacket adorned with glossy ostrich feathers.

Among the more daring elements are ribbed leather leggings and pencil skirts with side or front slits, some adorned with small silver studs. Vanhee’s exploration of sensuality is refreshing, considering her usual decorous approach. Ultimately, the soft silk dresses with subtle studs and smocked waists offer comfort for riding, whether on a horse or a motorcycle.