At a preview, David Koma expressed his satisfaction, saying, ‘I feel good about it all.’ Over the past few seasons, the designer’s demeanor before his shows has noticeably relaxed, a testament to his growing confidence in his own work—a remarkable transformation to witness.

True to his commitment to celebrating accomplished women in creative fields, Koma drew inspiration for his fall collection from influential figures in dance. These included the late German neo-Expressionist pioneer Pina Bausch and contemporary Spanish choreographer Candela Capitán. He aimed to blend these dance influences with the impactful kinetic sculptures created by artist Rebecca Horn. However, it was his visit to the ‘Thin Air’ exhibition at London’s Royal Docks that sparked the concept for this collection. Reflecting on the experience, he shared, ‘The space, light, and sound were comforting yet aligned with my taste. It was then that I began to explore dance and movement as central themes.’

Bausch’s fusion of everyday attire with dancewear materialized in sleek black and white ensembles. These featured formfitting leggings and justacorps- inspired tops, along with elegant evening gowns complete with ballet bustiers. Tutus took on new forms, incorporating various fabrics and hues— from feathered hems on leotards to chiffon shrugs across minidresses. The tailoring appeared more structured, crafted from neoprene, and included blazers, coats, and plume-adorned pants.