Proenza Schouler

This morning, their Tribeca loft basked in warm September light, setting a tone of reunion. The collection felt refreshed, anchored by scarf-like squares draped across the body, revealing skin in sleeveless striped tops with sailor pants and fluid floral dresses that moved gracefully. Bold marinière striped knit sets stood out, echoing the collectors’ appeal of their past velvet tie-dyes.

Hernandez and McCollough emphasized pleats and fringe as key elements—pleats lending Grecian elegance to jersey dresses, while fringe added a modern, edgy twist with leather and organza accents. Grounding the looks were rubber boots from a Sorel collaboration and sleek sneakers, channeling their New York street vibe. Sail-back short shirtdresses also promise to be crowd favorites.

Off-White

The women’s pieces exuded sensuality, with athletic wear staples like leotards featuring deep V-necklines and leggings split at the hem over spiked sandals. Shrunken track jackets and wispy skirts were styled with another jacket tied at the waist for a laid-back vibe.

Kamara’s menswear focused on zippered panels added to vests, jackets, and trousers, a detail he showcased in his runway bow. The collection also included a letterman jacket with logo patches and a hoodie featuring artwork by Ghanaian artist Nana Danso.

Brandon Maxwell

As he approaches ten years with his brand, he’s moving from bold exuberance to a sleek, sexy minimalism. The collection opened with a draped top featuring a fluttery hem—a nod to his past, but the focus was on stripped-back designs: body-hugging ribbed knits, sheer neoprene suits, and midriff-revealing skirts.

“I’ve gently unraveled the brand DNA to create a sense of effortless style,” he explained in his show notes, calling it “a new proposal for our customer.” Yet, some looks, like slouchy tank dresses worn as skirts and sheer skirts barely clinging to hips, felt too relaxed. 

Maxwell, who first gained fame for event dresses worn by Lady Gaga, still has a knack for all-American sportswear. This was evident in oversized barn jackets with a touch of Texas flair—a standout piece that speaks to both his roots and his refined vision.