Edvin Thompson’s highly anticipated return to New York Fashion Week didn’t go off without a hitch, with the show starting a full 76 minutes late. Despite the delay, Thompson’s spirits were high backstage at the Freehand hotel, reassuring everyone with a laugh: “We’re late, but it’s going to be a great show for sure.”

Thompson has been focused on growing his brand, sharing in a recent interview that his label is finally breaking even as he works on expanding distribution. Returning to the runway after three seasons, he emphasized that Theophilio was never on pause: “I never stopped. I was still here, still working, still shaping my brand.”

This season’s collection, “Shaunie”—named after Thompson’s childhood nickname—embraced the theme of self-acceptance. With a focus on striking silhouettes, the lineup included colorful silk separates with tonal sequins, menswear styles featuring grommet details, and graffiti-printed slips. Thompson reflected, “I used to shy away from loud prints and colors because I wasn’t comfortable with the attention. Leaning into discomfort, embracing who you are—that’s growth.”

The night was filled with support from a community eager to see Thompson’s work. While familiar Theophilio staples dominated, there’s hope for more innovation next season as Thompson continues to evolve. As he put it, growth comes from embracing discomfort—perhaps next time, he’ll take even bolder steps.