Summer may have officially ended, but the warm weather in London lingered just long enough for Marco Capaldo to debut a sun-drenched, carefree collection perfect for stretching the summer vibe into September—or, technically, spring 2025. The runway featured sheer tees tied at the bust, reminiscent of lounging on a beach in the Balearics, paired with python-print underwear; bikini tops matched with airy skirts bursting with fiery dip-dyed marabou feathers; and oversized button-downs casually thrown over bralettes or barely-there knits. Scattered confetti covered the floor, and artist Jesse Pollock’s towering steel and aluminum sculptures of swaying palm trees loomed over the scene. As Edie Campbell stepped out in a stunning suede duster coat under a soft yellow glow, the nostalgic club anthem “Generations of Love” filled the air.

But as always with Capaldo, there was more at play than just sunny escapism. The collection carried a darker, even unsettling, undercurrent inspired by Pedro Almódovar’s psychological thriller *The Skin I Live In*. Capaldo was drawn to the film’s unsettling elegance, particularly its moody lighting—steely blue-grays, soft yellows, and touches of eau de Nil. Beyond that, the carefully chosen artworks in the movie, like the replica of Titian’s *Venus of Urbino* and sculptures inspired by Louise Bourgeois, fed into his creative process. “I could feel, smell, almost taste the scenes,” Capaldo said, explaining how he wanted to evoke that same tactile sensation in his designs.