This collection took a deliberate step away from the whimsical touches we’ve come to expect—gone were the duck hats and hot water bottles, replaced by a sharper focus on practical, marketable pieces. The iconic Burberry trench coat elements—storm flaps, epaulettes, shoulder vents, Napoleon collars, and belts—were cleverly reimagined across various garments, from open-backed dresses to twinsets dotted with poppers, and cropped jackets with feathered collars. The signature camel, red, and black Burberry check appeared mostly as subtle belt details but also made a bold statement on a cropped duffel.

Bengal stripe shirts were elevated with the simple addition of a silver-clipped smocked scarf at the neck, a detail that added an effortless flair. Soft, washed leathers in muted, matte pastels were tailored into fitted pants and cropped biker jackets, while a ditsy floral print cleverly replaced camouflage on raincoats and tape-seamed combat pants. Low-rise front-seamed pants and shorts in denim or drill came with a protective wash that echoed the Hume canvas backdrop they were set against. Eveningwear took on a sparkling edge with sequined dresses, occasionally toughened up with leather parkas.

Lee dipped into Burberry’s archives, pulling out an old crest that he applied as a patch on a military style jacket on look 45, hinting at both the brand’s century-old heritage and its more recent rise as a global fashion powerhouse. As he noted backstage, Burberry’s past revival was driven by a British designer and an American CEO—a dynamic that seems poised to repeat as the brand steps into a new era of change.