The Marni show unfolded in the brand’s headquarters, an expansive and minimalist space bathed in moody, dark red lighting. Unlike the usual chaos of fashion week, there were no throngs of screaming fans vying for a glimpse of celebrities. Instead, a maze of seemingly random chairs surrounded three sleek black grand pianos, creating a disorienting yet intimate atmosphere. On each seat lay a poem, printed on delicate origami paper, telling the story of a white rabbit darting through a quiet, moonlit forest, only to vanish in a flash. “Beauty is a white rabbit. You chase it, but never quite catch it,” Risso mused backstage. This time, however, it felt like he might have captured that elusive beauty.

True to his eccentric, imaginative spirit, Risso built the entire collection around a single material: cotton. Exploring its versatility, he played with different textures and weaves, seeing it as a symbol of resilience and purity. “The cotton thread binds relationships, heals wounds, and guides us back to the path of essential beauty,” Risso explained, naming the collection after this idea – “The Essential Beauty Routine.”

Risso’s vision for the show was almost ceremonial. He aimed to evoke the structured elegance of old-fashioned runway shows, starting with understated daywear before transitioning into grand evening pieces. The collection opened with sleek, form-fitting silhouettes in muted tones, punctuated by sharp blacks and whites. Models strutted in tailored blazers over leggings, cropped shirts worn backward like capes, and petite dresses with vertical pleating. As the show progressed, the designs became more dramatic, with broad-shouldered jackets, structured tuxedos, and tight skirts featuring stiff, ruched hems, all hinting at 50’s couture. The look was completed with statement hats that felt like a nod to Audrey Hepburn’s timeless style.

But Risso’s work is never nostalgic. The closing sequence of evening gowns was a bold celebration of contemporary elegance. Bustier dresses with full, pannier-style skirts were adorned with oversized rose prints or embroidered with delicate, shredded cotton feathers and glimmering crystals. “These are glimpses of impossible beauty,” Risso reflected. “Beauty is everywhere, and it has the power to make everyone feel more beautiful.”