Lucie and Luke Meier took Jil Sander down a darker, more intense path this season, a reflection, they said, of the world’s current state. It feels like we’re in an era where only the tough make it through—so seeing fashion embrace prettiness might seem a bit offbeat. Last season, the Meiers leaned into softness with their swaddled silhouettes and feminine touches, but this time, the mood shifted, adapting to the tougher reality outside our windows.

Their inspiration came from Canadian photographer Greg Girard, who happened to be in the audience. His haunting images of 20th-century cars and dingy motel rooms showed up as prints—one on a boxy shirt and pencil skirt combo, another on a caban and shift dress set against the carpeted runway. The neon glow of his nighttime photos also played into the show’s color palette, which ranged from the shimmering iridescence of the opening suits—jackets paired with pants or shorts, ties to match—to the glossy brake-light red trench coat that closed the show. The tailored pieces drew on 1940s and ’80s influences, with the exaggerated shapes and double-pleated pants nodding to those bold eras without slipping into full-on retro territory.

Despite all the talk of darker vibes, there were moments of lightness woven into the collection. Dip-dyed shirt and skirt sets, a pastel midi-dress with decorative scrolling, and ribbed knit separates adorned with beads at the hems brought a softer touch. And even though their handcrafted details have taken a backseat since the pandemic, they resurfaced here in crochet panel tops and floral embroidery that added texture and nuance.

Then there were the Lonely Hearts pendant necklaces and a man’s sweater embroidered with the same words. Maybe these hinted at something softer beneath the tough exterior—like a reminder that even in hard times, we’re still vulnerable. It’s the same message the final look—a glossy black raincoat covered in a bouquet print—seemed to whisper: strength can be soulful, too.