To the upbeat remix of *Everything is Romantic* by Charli XCX herself (yes, she made it *just* for the show), Giuliano Calza unveiled his Spring 2025 collection, “Flowers of the Concrete.” And where did this all go down? At the Italian stock exchange, right in front of the infamous “L.O.V.E.” sculpture by Maurizio Cattelan—the one with the giant middle finger. The whole theme was about delicate flowers thriving in the toughest places, a metaphor for the kind of resilient women Calza adores, especially pop icons who, as he puts it, seem to influence everything around them. Think Charli XCX, of course, but also Bianca Censori. During a preview, Calza talked about the “stubborn energy” these women have, and how niches of culture eventually break through and go mainstream.

That energy was what fueled this collection, one that Calza wanted to feel connected to his community. He designed pieces that people could easily recreate themselves, like those V-shaped elastic tops (the kind made from repurposed old T-shirts) or the sheer knitwear and colorful tights doubling as hyper-pop bodysuits. But then, to shake things up, he paired those DIY-friendly looks with more polished pieces—duchesse satin pencil skirts, bombers, and mini dresses with flowy, soft shapes. The contrast between the casual and the high-fashion was a big part of his vision, and you could see it in the color choices too. Bright pops of orange and purple were set against varying shades of green—naturally, “Brat green” made an appearance.

Calza’s pop culture obsession was still there, but this time, it felt a little more understated. His iconic Hello Kitty bikini, for instance, made a subtle cameo in yellow, peeking out from the geometric neckline of a mini dress, like a little wink to his signature style.