Adrian Appiolaza, now in his third season leading Moschino, is proving to be quite the fashion historian. He’s not just reviving Franco Moschino’s legacy for today’s crowd—he’s offering up a full-on crash course in the tastemakers and trends of decades gone by. His show felt like a tour through various fashion subcultures, each detail meticulously curated by someone who clearly has a deep love for the archives.

The show kicked off with a series of all-white looks, a nod to Appiolaza’s debut collection from February. These draped silhouettes were inspired by an old photo he found of Moschino himself, twisting fabric around a mannequin. From there, the collection took off in all directions—like a tribute to Appiolaza’s personal fashion heroes. He brought in Terry Jones of *i-D* magazine fame to create graphic slogans for T-shirts and leggings and even collaborated with the Judy Blame Trust, using Blame’s iconic assemblage necklaces as accessories.

Blame’s influence didn’t stop at the accessories; his punk spirit was alive in a cocktail dress and a le smoking adorned with edgy pearls. The fedora-wearing models gave off serious Buffalo-era vibes, and the chalk drawings on those hats (and on the backs of coats—sadly hard to spot in runway shots) were based on sketches Moschino made as a child. The stripey knits and lace slip dresses seemed to channel Marc Jacobs’ famous grunge collection, though the bold black-and-white polka dots, some painted directly onto the models, were pure Franco Moschino.

The real standout pieces? Deconstructed little black dresses (or “tubinos” as Appiolaza called them) that looked simple from the front but had all the drama of the ’40s, ’50s, and ’60s when viewed from behind. Ambitious, playful, and rich with references—this collection wasn’t just about clothes; it was a deep dive into fashion’s history.