His muse this season? Jackie O – Gucci client back in the day, eternal style icon. She’s been inspiring designers for decades. “I came across this description in the archives that called her style ‘casual grandeur,’ and that just stuck with me,” he mentioned. And with the whole Kennedy clan making a comeback the timing felt almost too perfect.

It wasn’t too obvious from the start of the show – no pillbox hats here. Instead, it was a wool bomber paired with slouchy, hip-slung trousers and sneakers, something straight out of his men’s collection from earlier this year. But as the show went on, you started to see the Jackie vibes peek through, especially with those iconic archival print headscarves and big sunglasses, nodding to her chic Italian summers. Then there was this woven raffia coat in a neon green with a barely-there floral print, paired with seaside separates and wide-brimmed sun hats. That pattern? Inspired by an old photo of Queen Elizabeth II, of all people, rocking some vintage Gucci. It all screamed jet-set 1960s style.

The show wrapped with oversized coats that dragged along the floor, worn with tanks and boyish jeans—a look that felt like modern-day jet-set, but casual in a way De Sarno hasn’t really nailed before. There’s been a bit of gloom hanging over Gucci lately, but with the crowd dancing and singing along to that old Fiordaliso song, it seemed like De Sarno had won over some new fans. And in fashion, perception is everything—so that’s a big step forward.