At Dolce & Gabbana this season, it’s clear that blondes really do seem to have more fun. Designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have been noticing a growing seriousness in the fashion industry lately. “Fashion is a serious business, yes—but now it feels *too* serious,” Dolce remarked. For spring, they decided to lighten things up by taking us on a cinematic journey, drawing inspiration from some of Hollywood’s most iconic blonde bombshells—think Marilyn Monroe, Monica Vitti, and Marlene Dietrich. Platinum wigs, pin-up silhouettes, and structured, cone-shaped bras dominated the collection. In the battle between understated elegance and retro glamour, it wasn’t even close.

Madonna, the queen of reviving this vintage 1950s aesthetic back in her heyday, was sitting front row. While Jean Paul Gaultier may have been the mastermind behind her famous cone bras for the Blond Ambition tour, let’s not forget that Dolce & Gabbana created costumes for her 1993 Girlie Show tour, back when her controversial *Sex* book was making headlines. As the designers greeted her after the show, those skilled at reading lips could catch her saying, “I want everything,” from behind her black lace veil.

On the runway, the bras took center stage. Sometimes they peeked out from beneath classic trenches or topped off sleek balconette dresses. Other times, they were seamlessly integrated into the designs, showing up in stretchy cocktail dresses or structured blazers. One standout was a double-breasted black satin tuxedo featuring cone-shaped cups—a true testament to the duo’s pattern-making prowess, something few brands could pull off with such finesse.

With their 40th anniversary approaching, Dolce & Gabbana seem to be reflecting on their iconic work. After last season’s focus on the tuxedo, this collection felt lighter, almost celebratory. A soft pink sheath dress with long sleeves, understated except for its bullet-bra bodice, took direct inspiration from a photo of a young, radiant Marilyn Monroe. There was also a strapless number in baby blue, full of youthful charm, and bold red rose prints on white that added a lush, romantic touch.

As for the return of the bullet bra? It’s already making its way onto red carpets this year. In a fashion world that has liberated the nipple, maybe pointy, padded bras are the next nostalgic trend to swing back into vogue. With the models descending a mirrored staircase like stars on a movie set, it wasn’t hard to picture these dresses on A-listers—or on the many women who dream of channeling that same cinematic allure.