For spring, the focus was all about honing in on essentials—but of course, with their signature twist. Backstage, they dubbed these their “new basics,” showcasing a black bubble miniskirt with built-in bike shorts, bullet-bra tops (apparently having a moment this season), and jersey tees splashed with logos or bold graphics. Strapless bras stretched over button-downs gave a fetishy edge, and without them? Well, sure, the shirts could pass in the “straight world,” but where’s the fun in that? These basics weren’t so basic, and that’s exactly what their fans crave. DiCaprio and Taubensee have carved out their own niche with styles that fly off e-commerce shelves—so much so that a showgoer mentioned how Vaquera’s pieces are constantly selling out online.

But if you looked closer, there was a bit of signature-stealing (or at least borrowing) going on. The interlocking Vs on denim and canvas bags, the bold chain prints in gold on black, and the rugby shirt with a winged pegasus on the chest were all nods to familiar brand iconography, reminiscent of the double-take-inducing designs they sent down the runway in their early days. While they’ve moved on from the giant Tiffany-blue dustbag dresses that put them on the map back in fall 2017, their subversive spirit is alive and well. Now, with their brand maturing, they’re adding new must-have categories into the mix, like kitten-heeled cowboy boots and pumps that are already contenders for some of the coolest shoes of the season.