The collection took us back to the essence of classic glamour, but with a sleek, modern edge that only Anthony Vaccarello could deliver. Held in a chilly, rain-slicked set in the courtyard of the company’s headquarters in Paris, the show radiated a Parisian coolness that’s synonymous with the brand, while offering a fresh twist on some of its most recognizable elements.

Vaccarello didn’t shy away from sharp tailoring, but this season he softened it with fluid, elongated silhouettes that still had bite. The collection was a masterclass in contrasts—oversized blazers with nipped waists, sheer fabrics mixed with structured shoulders, and leather that felt sensual rather than tough. It was a balancing act of power and seduction, executed with Saint Laurent’s signature black-and-white palette, accented by metallics and a few splashes of jewel tones.

There was an undeniable ’80s undertone, but nothing felt retro—more like a reimagining of that decade’s confident aesthetic for today’s power players. Think strong-shouldered jackets paired with pencil skirts, plunging necklines that never veered into risqué territory, and slinky, second-skin dresses with just enough sheer panels to remind you that elegance can still be sexy. 

One of the most talked-about pieces was a floor-length black trench, rendered in the lightest silk that flowed behind the model like liquid. Equally striking were the high-waisted trousers that elongated the legs, styled with corset-like tops and tucked into pointed-toe boots, giving a nod to the brand’s rock-n-roll roots.

The accessories didn’t disappoint either. Oversized sunglasses, chunky gold jewelry, and sleek leather belts cinching the waist gave off a vibe that was more femme fatale than playful. It’s clear that Vaccarello knows exactly who he’s designing for: a woman who is in control, who uses fashion not just as self-expression but as armor.

While the collection kept its cool, there was a hint of nostalgia for Saint Laurent’s past glory days, subtly woven into the fabric of the new pieces. But it never felt derivative. Instead, Vaccarello managed to honor the house’s history while pushing it firmly into the future.

The takeaway? Saint Laurent’s Spring 2025 is a love letter to power dressing—but not the kind that’s all boardrooms and briefcases. This is power that comes from self-assuredness, from knowing who you are and not being afraid to show it. And in a world where fashion sometimes feels more about hype than heart, this collection was a refreshing reminder of what true style is all about.