Dries Van Noten’s departure from the runway after his final men’s show in June left a lasting impression, especially on his fellow designers and the many journalists who have grown to admire and wear his work over the years. Unlike the constant game of designer musical chairs, Van Noten stepping down feels more personal. While other big fashion houses are passed down to new creative directors tasked with reinventing legacies, none are trying to fill the shoes of a living founder. With Van Noten’s position still unoccupied, this collection was crafted by the label’s design studio. As the models walked the runway, the question lingered: what’s different?

In short, not much has changed. Van Noten’s signature rich colors, mixed patterns, and intricate embroidery were still front and center. As the show notes described it, the pieces were “converging along an optimistic path, extending from the earliest women’s collections through to what lies ahead.”

A bit of digging revealed that the Fall ’97 collection was a major reference point, known for its jewel tones, floral prints, and the fusion of eastern and western fashion codes. Reissues have become common in the industry, a nostalgic nod to the past and a way to introduce younger generations to their parents’ fashion. So, it made sense for the DVN team to revisit the archives, particularly from a collection that laid the foundation just a few years after Van Noten launched his women’s line.

What felt new were the lingerie-inspired elements: a marigold lace bandeau under a khaki jacket, silky tap pants paired with a pinstripe blazer, a vibrant fuchsia jacquard coat, and an embroidered evening jacket. Attracting a new generation of fans is clearly part of the plan, and longtime devotees of Dries may need to embrace the changes. There’s undoubtedly more evolution ahead, even if Van Noten himself stays involved—he was, after all, quietly seated near the backstage entrance during the show.

I was sitting near a devoted Van Noten fan, whose wardrobe is filled with pieces she’s collected over the years. The look that got her snapping photos? A roomy floral jacquard vest layered over a chartreuse shirt, paired with crinkly silver-blue cropped pants—a classic Van Noten mix of “shouldn’t work, but it does.” I, too, have a soft spot for his designs, and the standout for me was a pinstriped blazer tucked into relaxed, paper-bag waist pants—still undeniably Dries.