Daniel Roseberry is having a moment. With fashion shifting away from the monotony of “quiet luxury” and algorithm-driven trends, the spotlight is back on eccentricity—a space where Roseberry thrives, as he’s repeatedly shown in his couture work for Schiaparelli. While ready-to-wear is a more recent venture for him at the house, and he’s been refining his approach over the past few seasons, it’s clear he’s still catering to bold, extroverted dressers. Even though he’s toned down the surrealist flair that defined Elsa Schiaparelli and which he enthusiastically embraced early on, his designs remain anything but understated.

Take, for example, Kendall Jenner’s jeans, with a waistband dipping into a dramatic U-shape at both the front and back, perfectly complementing the snatched waist of her ivory jersey bodysuit with its built-in corset. These were far from your average denim. That hourglass silhouette reappeared throughout the collection, whether in a zip-front denim day dress or an evening-ready halter dress with contrasting black and off-white jersey draping at the hips.

But Roseberry wasn’t sticking to any single theme or trend. Instead, this collection felt like an eclectic mix from the wardrobe of a party-loving fashionista—someone who unapologetically wears zebra stripes, swears by shoulder pads, and only dabbles in florals if they’re hand-embroidered with painted sequins.

In a preview, Roseberry emphasized that this season wasn’t heavy on embellishment. Instead, he played with textures in new ways. For instance, a blue mesh bodycon dress was twisted into knots that cascaded down into a long braid, which the model held like a whip. In another look, strips of suede were stitched to a knit dress, with the ends shellacked for added shine. “It’s about capturing the drama people love from couture but making it effortless,” Roseberry explained. This idea extended to the shoes as well, where he reimagined Schiaparelli’s iconic golden trompe l’oeil toes. This season, leather babouche slides featured a cheeky golden toe ring, offering a quirky twist on a familiar design.