There was an air of mindfulness at Issey Miyake’s show this morning. Set in a park pavilion, it was a short walk from the Loewe presentation, yet perfectly aligned with the collection’s theme. Guests sat on round stools crafted from compressed paper cylinders, a byproduct of the brand’s signature pleating process—a subtle nod to sustainability and the enduring appeal of Miyake’s designs.

This eco-conscious gesture prefaced a collection inspired by the idea of paper in various forms. The opening looks, accompanied by the sound of trickling water, featured draped garments with a glossy, semi-transparent finish that mimicked the texture of wet paper. A series of outfits followed in muted tones like taupe, white, and black, made from a fabric that blended traditional Japanese washi paper with silk-rayon and stretch yarn. This unique material allowed Kondo to shape garments with sharp, angular folds while maintaining the soft, textured feel of handmade paper.

Hemp played a significant role in the collection as well, used in knitwear that mixed different tones and textures in irregular patterns. Tailored pieces crafted from sturdier hemp fabric featured more structured shapes, while pleated designs wrapped and twisted around the models, showcasing the fabric’s flexibility as it stretched and returned to form with each step.

The show also had playful moments, with one outfit adorned with crocodile clips and a handbag made from yarn interwoven with washi paper. Accessories like hats and eyewear featured pressed flowers and leaves, leading into a series of crinkled silk garments printed with delicate floral patterns. The balance of lightness and substance left a lasting impression, with the collection’s intricate craftsmanship and understated charm shining through.