Loewe Spring 2025 Ready - To - Wear:

Jonathan Anderson marked his 10-year milestone at Loewe with a circular-themed runway show that kicked off with a floaty, off-the-shoulder crinoline dress adorned with flowers. The dress’s exposed under-hoops echoed the circular motif, setting the tone for a collection that felt effortlessly light and modern. Models breezed down the runway, hands in pockets, sporting two-tone Oxfords and oversized mirrored aviators, as if they were dressed in something as casual as sweatshirts and jeans. The absence of corsets only added to the relaxed vibe.

Anderson wasn’t just playing with aesthetics—he was challenging the conventions of classicism, exploring the relevance of couture craftsmanship, and blending fashion realism with pop culture. These are themes he’s masterfully worked with since taking the reins at Loewe a decade ago, when he was just 30. Every invitation to the show came with a silver ring engraved with Loewe’s name, symbolizing the circular concept he wanted to evoke. “The ring is circular,” he said, explaining his vision.

Instead of a grand, elaborate set, the show centered around a single art piece by Tracey Emin—a simple bronze pole topped with a small bird, frozen in a moment of stillness. According to the show notes, it represented “pause” and the anticipation of freedom, adding a layer of contemplation to the stripped-back, white-box arena where the audience sat.

As the models walked, the focus was purely on the clothes—an impressive display of skill and precision. Anderson’s designs referenced classical composers and artists, with T-shirts featuring Mozart, Chopin, and Van Gogh. The twist? These tees were made entirely of feathers, turning iconic figures into wearable art. “They’re like pin-up rock stars,” Anderson mused. “It’s like going to a museum or concert and wanting a memento. Music reminds us of moments in our lives.”

The collection also showcased French golden-age couture dresses reimagined in fresh ways—floral prints, semi-sheer fabrics, and hoop skirts—but with a twist: paired with sneakers. Anderson’s take on event dressing was elegant yet utterly wearable, stripping away the unnecessary fuss. “It’s interesting when you take the fussy bits out,” he noted.

While this show wasn’t a retrospective, Anderson’s impact on Loewe was evident throughout. His sophisticated tailoring, like blazers draped over voluminous trousers and leather coats with flipped hems, demonstrated the evolution of the brand under his direction. And, of course, the collection included Loewe’s signature commercial hits, from must-have handbags to the coveted ‘Ballet Runner’ sneakers.

The show ended with a standing ovation, a testament to Anderson’s achievements over the past decade. Applauding him were fellow designers Sarah Burton, Kris Van Assche, and Nicolas De Felice, alongside actor friends and fashion powerhouses like Delphine Arnault. It was a well-deserved moment of recognition for a designer who has elevated Loewe into a global fashion force.