Ottolinger Spring 2025 Ready - To - Wear:

Just minutes before the Ottolinger show, co-founder Christa Bösch was spotted backstage on her knees, snipping away at the hem of a long black dress. Meanwhile, out on the runway, a massive, beached shark with a bloodied mouth created a dramatic scene, marking the exit for the models. Despite its ominous appearance, the shark wasn’t meant to be gory or grotesque.

“It’s about fearlessness,” explained Cosima Gadient, the other half of the Ottolinger duo. “This is the woman who thrives in the face of chaos.” Similarly, the bands and oversized, inflated accessories that adorned many of the looks—some reminiscent of life vests—weren’t purely conceptual. The designers described these wraps as flexible, designed to be easily added to, or removed from, an evening outfit to elevate the look.

The show notes took on a poetic tone, describing the collection as “a body in transit, dressed in the remnants of last night’s party and ready for tomorrow’s fresh starts.” The references were almost mythical, invoking the image of a shark “gliding between cities, its dorsal fin slicing through the world like an oyster shell.”

Beyond the initial neoprene leggings, the collection marked a step forward for Ottolinger. It centered around long jersey dresses that transitioned seamlessly from day to night. Some were designed with dual necklines, allowing the wearer to switch between a classic shirt collar and a bolder, forward-shifted look, as seen in a striking red dress featured in look 8. Although the pieces had a torn and shredded aesthetic, there was a cleaner, more minimalist vibe compared to past collections. Gadient herself admitted, “Sometimes we do overdo it with the straps.”

Key pieces from the lineup included a short black halter dress that embraced body positivity, sandals adorned with crystals, and designs in Ecco leather. Standouts among the leather pieces were jackets made from a foiled, crunched leather dubbed “car crash” jackets, and a playful take on an iconic handbag—reinterpreted in black or bubblegum pink, with a base coated in tonal thermo-molded rubber. These handbags were accessorized with a metal “Trading Bank” credit card, symbolizing female financial empowerment.

The collection also featured collaborations, most notably with Shayne Oliver on bikinis and sunglasses, and with Shark Beauty for the hair looks, adding a playful nod with optional Barbie-esque hair.