The collection, titled *Calibrate*, marked a notable shift for Andreas Kronthaler. For the first time since fall 2014, it focused entirely on womenswear, moving away from the gender-fluid offerings that had defined the line. Kronthaler emphasized this new direction, explaining, “These are clothes designed for women, not men.” Unlike previous collections, this one didn’t rely heavily on historical references, save for a few subtle period elements. “For once, it’s just about the clothes—clothes that symbolize a strong, feminine woman, which is what we need more than ever right now,” Kronthaler said.

This season has seen designers redefining feminine sexiness in various ways, with no single, dominant approach emerging. That unpredictability worked in Kronthaler’s favor as he began to channel the technical mastery of the Vivienne Westwood house to cater to a broader audience. Westwood, who had long been his muse, still felt present in his work, even in her absence. “She’s still here, everywhere around,” he noted, while also signaling that he was ready to step into his own and evolve the brand’s codes.

The collection played with classic bourgeois silhouettes, but with a focus on construction rather than surface embellishment. A pale lilac wrap dress, for instance, was transformed with layers of irregular draping that gave it a sense of movement. A one-shoulder check dress had a technical-bohemian vibe, mixing a scalloped hem with a track-pants tie at the neckline. There was also a striking blue wool jacket with exaggerated shoulders and an off-kilter skirt that emerged between two vents. The designs were a study in contrasts: traditional forms like knits and crepes were reimagined with bold proportions and unexpected angles. While some pieces had simple, playful details—like a cutout at the bottom of a knit dress—most of the collection embraced complexity within seemingly straightforward designs.

It’s been eight years since Kronthaler’s name was added to this line, which was previously known as Vivienne Westwood Gold Label. In a nod to the past, two of the looks today were made from upcycled linings from that era. However, this collection felt like a turning point for Kronthaler, as he fully stepped into the forefront of the brand. “I’ve always asked myself: Would she like it? Is this something she would do? What would she choose? But now, I’m doing that less,” he admitted. This shift—breaking away from past expectations and pushing forward—felt perfectly in line with the rebellious, ever-evolving Westwood legacy.