A year ago, Gabriela Hearst was celebrating her final show at Chloé with a joyful dance on the Seine alongside models and members of Brazil’s Mangueira samba school. During her three-year tenure as creative director, she steered the French fashion house toward a more eco-conscious path, even achieving B Corp certification for the Richemont-owned brand. Fast forward to today, and Hearst is back in Paris, now showcasing her own label and continuing her earth-centered narrative, drawing connections between goddess worship, the respect for nature, and the empowerment of women.

Her show notes were extensive, detailing not just the outfits but also the goddesses that inspired them. Leather capes, for instance, longer at the back than the front, were linked to Diana, the same deity Maria Grazia Chiuri referenced this season. Hecate, the protective goddess associated with Diana, inspired the chain closure on a sharply tailored black blazer. Meanwhile, the metal-woven silk used for a pantsuit and a puff-sleeved dress paid homage to Fides, the goddess of faith and trust.

At a preview, Hearst earnestly shared her belief in the power of prayer, describing her collection as “an invocation.” But without the detailed notes, her inspirations weren’t immediately obvious. Instead, what stood out were the familiar elements of her design DNA: the sleek knits, sharp tailoring, and romantic dresses she’s been perfecting since launching her brand. She’s also investing in high-quality materials like mulberry silk for her luxurious hand knits and pushing her design boundaries with leather coats and pants that had a cowboy flair, as well as debuting some standout cowboy boots.

Gabriela Hearst’s brand is in a period of growth, with two new stores set to open in Japan by year’s end. Showing in Paris gave her access to international press and buyers who may not attend New York Fashion Week as frequently as they once did. For the show’s setting, she chose the garden of the Hotel Pozzo di Borgo, which used to be Karl Lagerfeld’s backyard—a prestigious location to live up to. For this occasion, she also debuted her first high jewelry collection, featuring a striking necklace of black silk cord with a suspended imperial jade pendant and a cluster of baguette diamonds.