Chanel made its return to the Grand Palais after a four-year hiatus, and the timing couldn’t have been more perfect. Sunlight streamed through the newly restored glass ceiling, giving an extra shimmer to the embroidered tweeds worn by many of the clients present. It felt like a reunion for the fashion house’s loyal following, who busied themselves with selfies and compliments, seemingly unfazed by the still-vacant creative director position that has been stirring up quite a bit of chatter in the fashion world since New York Fashion Week kicked off.

Everyone in the front row had an opinion on who should fill the role and what kind of vision they should bring to the table. Should it be someone with sharp marketing skills or a truly innovative designer? And given Chanel’s heritage, shouldn’t it be a woman? Even Hedi Slimane stirred the conversation further by unveiling a surprise Celine collection over the weekend that nodded heavily to Chanel’s founder, Coco herself.

For the spring collection, Chanel’s creative team took inspiration from the Grand Palais. The standout pieces were intricately hand-knit to mimic the structure’s iconic Art Deco ironwork. The collection’s overall theme was one of lightness and fluidity, which was evident in details like front-slit skirts showing off flashes of leg, soft feathered collars, billowing chiffon capes, and platform shoes that injected a youthful energy into the looks.

In the center of the Palais stood a massive birdcage, a nostalgic nod to the 1991 Chanel commercial starring Vanessa Paradis, directed by Jean-Paul Goude. The models walked in and around the cage, traversing the large space, a symbolic reminder of Chanel’s storied past. The studio’s creative team brought fresh takes to the brand’s iconic tweeds by introducing candy-colored pastels and switching the classic skirt suit for a shorts suit. Some unexpected pieces made their debut too, like a black denim jacket and jeans adorned with black sequins, capturing the casual-yet-chic spirit of the younger generation working in the atelier.

The eveningwear reflected the same playful vibe. There was embellished denim, a feather-trimmed baby blue cape, and a sparkly tweed jumpsuit with a trailing chiffon cape. Riley Keough even channeled this energy in the show’s finale, singing “When Doves Cry” while perched on a swing inside the birdcage. With the dove suspended mid-flight, it was a perfect metaphor for the fashion industry, holding its breath to see what direction Chanel will take next.