As I waited for the Sacai show to kick off, it was clear that the brand had evolved from being a niche, insider favorite to a global powerhouse. The front row, packed with rising stars draped in Chitose Abe’s avant-garde creations, was proof enough. As a long-time admirer, I couldn’t help but feel a mix of pride and a little possessiveness over seeing the brand grow so much.

Backstage, Abe reflected on her impressive 25 years in the industry. While some might take such a milestone as a chance to look back and celebrate, Abe seemed more determined than ever to push forward. And it wasn’t just because of the celebrity-filled front row. “I wanted to take familiar, classic pieces and reimagine them in a completely new way, going back to Sacai’s roots,” she explained through her interpreter.

The collection stayed true to Sacai’s signature style, grounded in familiar wardrobe staples like peacoats, marinière sweaters, trenches, and army jackets. But this time, there was a distinct French influence, with couture-inspired touches. Abe mentioned she had just opened a Paris office for Sacai, adding, “Maybe that’s reflected in the clothes.”

Someone next to me pointed out that the gold SA monogram on a coat pocket reminded them of YSL, while for me, it was the crisp, white shirt collars that gave the collection its unmistakable Parisian vibe. Other standout details included bustles on boxy striped tees, sheer inserts in chunky speckle knit sweaters, and multicolored fringe that added texture to miniskirts and a coat, mimicking the look of fur—only better.

The grand finale came with three evening looks that highlighted Abe’s talent for deconstruction and intricate cutting. They played with the classic *le smoking* tuxedo style, making them fit for a black-tie event, yet refreshingly unconventional, capturing Sacai’s true spirit.