Despite the current challenges swirling around the luxury market, Zimmermann is riding high. The brand just launched a new store in SoHo, New York, and plans to open 14 more locations by the end of next year. During our preview, Nicky Zimmermann shared that their Paris studio will be ready in about six months: “It’s going to be incredible. We’ll have a full atelier, so I’ll be splitting my time between Australia and Paris, which is pretty amazing.”

This latest collection seemed to bridge that geographical divide. Upon entering the Palais de Tokyo, guests were greeted by clips from *Morning of the Earth*, a 1970s Australian surf film. The remastered footage, available on YouTube, showcased sun-kissed surfers in Australia and Indonesia, crafting boards and catching waves. Zimmermann explained that she had reached out to the film’s director, Albert “Albe” Falzon, not only to get his approval but also to collaborate on the collection’s concept. “He’s such a beautiful soul,” she said. “We connected over our shared appreciation of Australia’s light and how it transforms colors. I wanted to capture that light and the fluidity of surfing in the movement and fabric of the clothes.”

The show’s opening look set the stage: a marine-blue organza dress with a braided macramé bodice, cascading into wave-like ruffles. Core pieces like cropped trenches, utility shorts, and shirt dresses in soft viscose drill appeared throughout the show in various iterations. One standout was an Aloha print featuring kangaroos among palm trees. A crinolined dress and skirt made from organdy infused with fine metal threads shimmered like sunlight dancing on water.

The surf theme allowed for some inventive designs. Bronze jersey dresses incorporated neoprene sections, evoking wetsuits, while still allowing the fabric to move freely. Small touches, like lightweight cotton corduroy trousers and shell necklaces, gave a nostalgic nod to old-school surf culture. The accessories included fringed rattan basket bags and a relaxed leather tote with hardware shaped like surfboard racks. A cropped smock top in raw linen voile, edged with wave-like embroidery and a yin-yang mandala, perfectly captured the collection’s laid-back, yet thoughtful vibe. 

Rather than being overtly about surfing or the ’70s, the collection channeled the idyllic, carefree spirit of Falzon’s film, aligning seamlessly with Zimmermann’s signature joyful, expressive style.