If New York Fashion Week felt a little meh this season, blame Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez. The Proenza Schouler co-founders exited the brand just three weeks before their usual fall show—leaving us all hanging. Rumor has it they’re headed to a European label (cue wild speculation), but in the meantime, the show must go on for the American house they launched 22 years ago.

Instead of a runway spectacle, Proenza’s new CEO, Shira Suveyke Snyder, and Lisa Muscatel (a 12-year brand vet and head of the design studio) hosted showroom walk-throughs for the fall collection. Thankfully, before their departure, McCollough and Hernandez managed to pull off a photoshoot at Manitoga/The Russel Wright Design Center—an hour outside the city—with the images now circulating.

The setting fit the vibe of the clothes, which had a more outdoorsy, rugged feel than Proenza’s usual urban cool. Picture an oversized buffalo check top paired with a scarf skirt, or ultra-wide wale corduroy pants made for traipsing through a foggy meadow (or just, you know, walking your dog). Outerwear took center stage, too: leather aviators, weatherproof macs, and roomy jackets with relaxed fits and soft draping at the back. The most unexpected twist? A cowl-neck top that doubles as a hood—perfect for this season’s weird hat obsession.

Where things felt dialed back? Statement dresses. Last season, McCollough and Hernandez wowed with their nautical-inspired asymmetrical striped knits and fringed numbers. This time around, the big moment belonged to a bold chartreuse two-piece dress, all signature Proenza pleats and gold chain halter details. There was also a draped red dress topped off with metal hardware—a subtle nod to their architectural aesthetic.

Proenza Schouler may be in a state of transition, but if this collection is any indicator, they’re still pushing boundaries—even without their founding duo at the helm.