Mark Fast — Spring/Summer 2027
There are runway shows you watch and then there are runway shows where you find yourself zooming into the pictures afterwards thinking, wait, how the hell did they make that?
Mark Fast did that to me.
Because at first glance, this looks like a very simple proposition: knitwear, skin, colour, legs, repeat. But then you actually look. And look again. And suddenly the whole thing starts to unravel — literally.
Fast has built the collection around a surprisingly disciplined idea: take the language he knows best and keep pushing it through different colours, textures and levels of construction. Ribbed knits become body-conscious bandage silhouettes. Open lattice becomes almost spiderweb-like. Fringe moves around the body. Cording wraps, cuts through and exposes. Then the beading arrives and suddenly something that started out feeling almost raw becomes incredibly elaborate.
And honestly? I love that progression.
The first looks have this almost primitive directness to them. Chocolate-brown ribbed knit. An off-the-shoulder crop. A tiny skirt. Those enormous cuffs around the wrists. Slouchy boots. The body is completely present, but nothing feels particularly interested in hiding it.
Then comes that extraordinary washed sage green.
OH MY GOD.
The colour alone changes the temperature of the collection. Suddenly the openwork feels softer, almost aquatic, while the cut-outs and exposed skin keep everything firmly in Mark Fast territory. The knit isn’t sitting on the body so much as travelling around it. It stretches, opens, compresses and reveals. You can almost see the engineering happening in real time.
And then Fast gets even more complicated.
The lattice becomes a kind of cage. The cage becomes a dress. The dress becomes fringe. The fringe moves with the body and suddenly the runway is full of these strange little moments where the clothes appear to be moving independently of the women wearing them.
That is the thing I kept coming back to.
The body isn’t being forced into the clothes. The clothes are adapting to the body.
That has always been an important part of Fast’s language, but here it feels particularly direct. Different bodies, different ages, different physicalities — and the same construction behaves differently on each one. The transparency changes. The tension changes. The proportions change.
The garment becomes almost a conversation.
And then there is the colour.
Chocolate. Sage. Olive. Apricot. Tan. Black. Each chapter shifts the emotional register without abandoning the underlying system. It is almost like Fast is asking: How many lives can the same idea have?
Quite a few, apparently.
The accessories help keep everything together, too. Those chunky cuffs appear again and again, becoming almost a visual punctuation mark. The footwear stays relatively restrained — delicate sandals in some looks, tall boots in others — because frankly, the clothes don’t need much help.
They are already doing quite a lot.
There is something slightly addictive about watching the collection develop because you start recognising the construction before you recognise the look. You see the lattice and think, okay, I know where this is going. Then the fringe appears. Or the beading. Or the colour changes. Or the proportions shift.
And that is where the collection becomes interesting.
Because repetition is both its greatest strength and its biggest problem.
By the time we’ve seen several versions of the open-lattice mini, the eye understands the trick. And once you understand a trick, you start waiting for the next one. Some of the repetition begins to feel less like discovery and more like proof of concept.
Which isn’t necessarily a bad thing.
Maybe that is exactly what Fast wants us to see.
That he doesn’t need to reinvent the silhouette every six months. That the experimentation can happen inside the construction itself. That a single vocabulary can keep producing different results if you keep pulling at it.
But I did find myself wanting the collection to edit itself a little harder.
Not because the clothes weren’t interesting.
Because some of them were so interesting that I wanted more room to remember them.
The final black looks make that particularly obvious. The beading adds density without abandoning the cage-like construction that has carried the collection from the beginning. And when fringe, cording and beading finally come together, it feels like Fast has taken every piece of the argument and thrown it onto one body.
That final look makes sense.
It doesn’t scream finale.
It earns it.
And perhaps that’s what stayed with me.
Mark Fast isn’t really trying to tell us a story this season. He’s showing us what happens when you take one idea seriously enough to keep worrying at it.
Pull it.
Stretch it.
Open it.
Knot it.
Bead it.
Repeat it.
Repeat it again.
Until suddenly repetition becomes a language.
And maybe that’s the real question sitting underneath this collection: when does repetition stop being repetition and start becoming craft?
I’m still thinking about it.
Which, frankly, is probably a better place for a runway show to leave me than having everything neatly explained before I even leave the room.