I thought I knew what a Thom Browne show was going to give me. Grey tailoring. Perfect proportions. The little socks. The tiny ties. A few absurd silhouettes. Something wonderfully strange happening somewhere in the middle. And then this happened.
Zankov began with the 1960s — specifically that strange moment when the future still felt like something you could actually imagine. Space travel. Moon landings. New technology. New silhouettes. New women. New everything. The collection was inspired partly by Zankov’s memories of his mother in Soviet Russia, wearing purple corduroy, mohair and metallic platforms, while the show opened with Jeanne Moreau singing “Le Tourbillon”.
There was a point during Altuzarra when it became obvious: this was *the* show. Not the polite kind of good. Not the “beautiful tailoring, moving on” kind of good. The kind that makes you sit up a little straighter because the clothes are doing too much—soft, sharp, strange, sexy, considered—and somehow none of it feels confused.
