The Attico- Spring 2027
There is something slightly funny about watching a collection called Quando Nessuno Guarda — “When No One Looks” — in the middle of Milan, because obviously everyone is looking.
Everyone is looking.
That is, after all, the whole point of a fashion show.
Gucci – Spring 2027
There is something slightly funny about watching Demna make Gucci quieter.
This is the man who spent years making fashion feel like it had been thrown into a blender, then somehow turned the mess into a cultural event. So naturally, when he arrives at Gucci and starts talking about proportion, product, classic wardrobe pieces and the pleasure of simply making something beautiful, my first thought is: Wait… Demna? Are you okay?
And then the clothes come out.
Roberto Cavalli – Spring 2027
There are fashion shows where you sit there quietly taking notes, trying to understand what the designer is saying.
And then there are Roberto Cavalli shows where you basically need to hold onto your chair.
OH MY GOD.
Leopard. Tiger. Zebra. Flowers. Gold. Pink. Coral. Crystal. Feathers. Low waists. Bare stomachs. Sheer chiffon. Denim covered in things. More leopard. Then some more leopard because, apparently, we hadn’t quite got the message.
Max Mara – Spring 2027
There are clothes you look at and immediately understand.
And then there are clothes that make you think about your own wardrobe, which, honestly, can be much more dangerous.
Because somewhere between the first camel coat and the last black dress at Max Mara, I started thinking about belts. Not in the boring accessory of the season kind of way. More like: why are we so obsessed with pulling things in? Why do we spend all this time making clothes bigger, softer, looser, more comfortable — only to take a belt and say, actually, no. Here.
Etro – Spring 2027
There was something about walking into the Etro show and seeing a field of wheat sitting beside a concrete runway that made me think, okay, I know where this is going.
Except I didn’t.
And actually, that’s probably the point.
Because Etro has always been a house that wears its references on the outside. Paisley, embroidery, jacquard, colour, travel, a little bit of bohemia, a little bit of romance — all those things we’ve come to associate with the Etro universe. You usually know where you are almost immediately.
Jil Sander – Spring 2027
I think I’m becoming slightly obsessed with clothes that don’t immediately tell you what they’re trying to do.
You know the ones.
They walk out and you’re waiting for the big moment — the print, the enormous silhouette, the thing you’re supposed to screenshot — and instead you get a coat.