Richard Quinn – Spring 2027
I have a weakness for clothes that take themselves very seriously.
Give me a gigantic skirt, a corset, enough crystals to require its own insurance policy and a woman walking towards me looking as though she has just been informed that the entire room belongs to her — and, honestly, I’m interested.
So Richard Quinn had me pretty much immediately.
At first, though, I thought something strange had happened.
Where was the riot?
Chopova Lowena – Spring 2027
At what point does getting dressed stop being getting dressed and become a full-blown personality disorder?
Because watching Chopova Lowena, I kept thinking about the moment you were a child and decided that today you were going to be a bride, a ballerina, a witch, a princess, a mourner, a rock star and possibly someone’s slightly unhinged aunt — all before lunch.
KNWLS – Spring 2027
I wasn’t expecting KNWLS to make me think about romance.
Honestly.
KNWLS, in my head, has always lived somewhere between a corset, a motorbike and the slightly dangerous feeling that something might come apart at any second. Skin. Straps. Hardware. Leather. The body held together and pulled apart at the same time.
And then this collection walks out in powder blue.
Bora Aksu – Spring 2027
Bora Aksu staged Spring 2027 like a garden party with something unsettled beneath the petals. The set’s climbing greenery and small white flowers made an easy frame for the collection’s ivory, powder pink, lilac and blue, but the clothes kept interrupting any idea of uncomplicated sweetness. There were brides, perhaps; there were girls in bonnets; there was one figure in a black lace dress that felt as if she had wandered in from a different ending.
Mark Fast – Spring 2027
There are runway shows you watch and then there are runway shows where you find yourself zooming into the pictures afterwards thinking, wait, how the hell did they make that?
Mark Fast did that to me.
Because at first glance, this looks like a very simple proposition: knitwear, skin, colour, legs, repeat. But then you actually look. And look again. And suddenly the whole thing starts to unravel — literally.
Thom Browne – Spring 2027
I thought I knew what a Thom Browne show was going to give me.
Grey tailoring. Perfect proportions. The little socks. The tiny ties. A few absurd silhouettes. Something wonderfully strange happening somewhere in the middle.
And then this happened.