Roksanda Ilincic – Spring 2027

Roksanda Ilincic – Spring 2027

I have a confession: for the first few looks, I thought Roksanda was trying to behave. And I mean that affectionately. There was something almost suspiciously controlled about it. Black tailoring. Soft ivory. Muted beige. Clean trousers. Sharp shoulders. A little scarf here, a glove there. Everything beautifully contained, beautifully disciplined. The sort of clothes that make you stand up slightly straighter without quite knowing why. And then suddenly — colour. Then fringe. Then those enormous sculptural hips. And I thought: OH. There you are.

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Simone Rocha – Spring 2027

Simone Rocha – Spring 2027

I knew Simone Rocha was going to give us romance. Lace, flowers, bows, something slightly haunted, something slightly beautiful. That part was never really in doubt. But then the first looks came out and I found myself thinking: Oh. We’re going somewhere else. Because this collection feels less like “pretty” and more like what happens when prettiness starts to unravel. And honestly? I love that.

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Richard Quinn – Spring 2027

Richard Quinn – Spring 2027

I have a weakness for clothes that take themselves very seriously. Give me a gigantic skirt, a corset, enough crystals to require its own insurance policy and a woman walking towards me looking as though she has just been informed that the entire room belongs to her — and, honestly, I’m interested. So Richard Quinn had me pretty much immediately. At first, though, I thought something strange had happened. Where was the riot?

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Chopova Lowena – Spring 2027

Chopova Lowena – Spring 2027

At what point does getting dressed stop being getting dressed and become a full-blown personality disorder? Because watching Chopova Lowena, I kept thinking about the moment you were a child and decided that today you were going to be a bride, a ballerina, a witch, a princess, a mourner, a rock star and possibly someone's slightly unhinged aunt — all before lunch.

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KNWLS – Spring 2027

KNWLS – Spring 2027

I wasn't expecting KNWLS to make me think about romance. Honestly. KNWLS, in my head, has always lived somewhere between a corset, a motorbike and the slightly dangerous feeling that something might come apart at any second. Skin. Straps. Hardware. Leather. The body held together and pulled apart at the same time. And then this collection walks out in powder blue.

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Bora Aksu – Spring 2027

Bora Aksu – Spring 2027

Bora Aksu staged Spring 2027 like a garden party with something unsettled beneath the petals. The set’s climbing greenery and small white flowers made an easy frame for the collection’s ivory, powder pink, lilac and blue, but the clothes kept interrupting any idea of uncomplicated sweetness. There were brides, perhaps; there were girls in bonnets; there was one figure in a black lace dress that felt as if she had wandered in from a different ending.

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Mark Fast – Spring 2027

Mark Fast – Spring 2027

There are runway shows you watch and then there are runway shows where you find yourself zooming into the pictures afterwards thinking, wait, how the hell did they make that? Mark Fast did that to me. Because at first glance, this looks like a very simple proposition: knitwear, skin, colour, legs, repeat. But then you actually look. And look again. And suddenly the whole thing starts to unravel — literally.

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Zankov – Spring 2027

Zankov – Spring 2027

Zankov began with the 1960s — specifically that strange moment when the future still felt like something you could actually imagine. Space travel. Moon landings. New technology. New silhouettes. New women. New everything. The collection was inspired partly by Zankov’s memories of his mother in Soviet Russia, wearing purple corduroy, mohair and metallic platforms, while the show opened with Jeanne Moreau singing “Le Tourbillon”.

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Altuzarra – Spring 2027

Altuzarra – Spring 2027

There was a point during Altuzarra when it became obvious: this was *the* show. Not the polite kind of good. Not the “beautiful tailoring, moving on” kind of good. The kind that makes you sit up a little straighter because the clothes are doing too much—soft, sharp, strange, sexy, considered—and somehow none of it feels confused.

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