Versace Fall 2025
The looming possibility of a Versace sale cast a long shadow over tonight’s show, turning the usual spectacle into something more charged, more uncertain. As the fashion crowd settled into the tram depot where it was staged, the murmurs were inevitable—was this Donatella Versace’s final bow? And if so, what would Versace even be without Donatella?
Roberto Cavalli Fall 2025
Just yesterday, archaeologists announced the discovery of new frescoes in Pompeii—thirty to forty A.D., depicting the initiation rites of Dionysus’s devotees. Perfect timing. Fausto Puglisi, for his part, had already decided that his latest Cavalli outing would center on Pompeii—the ancient pleasure palace of a city, decadent and doomed in equal measure, smothered in volcanic ash nearly two millennia ago. It was love at first sight for him, or so the story goes—he first visited as a child, and it stayed with him, the way ancient beauty and sudden catastrophe tend to do.
Prada Fall 2025
After the Prada show, a photographer—cheeky, exasperated, perhaps both—asked what, exactly, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons had been up to this season. When the answer came—“interrogating femininity,” specifically, “what is feminine beauty today?”—he snorted: “Er, double Ds.” It was a joke, obviously, but not an inaccurate one. Idealized beauty remains the defining obsession of our age, only now it’s purchasable—nipped, tucked, lasered, and filtered into a kind of eerie digital perfection, a symmetry so precise it could only exist in the uncanny valley.
Moschino Fall 2025
If there was ever any doubt that Adrian Appiolaza is head-over-heels, madly, obsessively in love with fashion, today’s Moschino show erased it in a blizzard of confetti and a full-throttle celebration of the art, science, and pure alchemy of making clothes. At the preview, Appiolaza traced his inspiration back to Franco Moschino’s 1992 Mannequin dress—now part of the Costume Institute’s collection—a cheeky riff on the Stockman dressmaker’s dummy, except Moschino, ever the branding visionary, swapped out the Stockman logo for his own. (And for those keeping meticulous fashion history spreadsheets, yes, Moschino did it half a decade before Margiela.)
Tod’s Fall 2025
Matteo Tamburini is settling into his rhythm at Tod’s, refining the precise, pared-back aesthetic he first introduced three seasons ago. But today, his approach felt fuller—warmer, more layered, more assured. And let’s talk about the outerwear, because it was some of the best yet.
Etro Fall 2025
Fur has been everywhere this season—some of it good, some of it unnecessary, some of it a little too self-consciously ironic. But Etro? Etro sent out the kind you actually want to wear. Case in point: the opening look—a shaggy, near-regal wool fur coat, its bold black-and-white stripes giving just enough drama, shrugged over paisley-print trousers and a knitted waistcoat, insouciant and easy.