Courreges Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear:
The invitation to Courrèges’ show was a sleek metal mobius strip, a subtle hint at Nicolas Di Felice’s spring collection. The concept of infinite loops was woven into the designs, where what seemed like separate pieces—like a tank dress paired with a bandeau—were actually one. Di Felice crafted these illusionary looks by creating halter-style dresses with a neck opening and a horizontal strap that wraps around the chest. Slip your head through, fasten the side snaps, and voilà—one seamless piece.
Dries Van Noten Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear:
Dries Van Noten’s departure from the runway after his final men’s show in June left a lasting impression, especially on his fellow designers and the many journalists who have grown to admire and wear his work over the years. Unlike the constant game of designer musical chairs, Van Noten stepping down feels more personal. While other big fashion houses are passed down to new creative directors tasked with reinventing legacies, none are trying to fill the shoes of a living founder.
Acne Studios Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear:
Lyndon Chase’s exploration of domesticity, privacy, and those intimate “interior moments” really came through in a collection that felt like it borrowed its materials straight from home decor. The clothes seemed to challenge—or at least question—the usual codes of identity that fashion tends to reinforce. Much like furniture, the pieces started out as conventional but were twisted, manipulated, and exaggerated in a way that made them question their own existence.
Saint Laurent Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear:
The collection took us back to the essence of classic glamour, but with a sleek, modern edge that only Anthony Vaccarello could deliver. Held in a chilly, rain-slicked set in the courtyard of the company’s headquarters in Paris, the show radiated a Parisian coolness that’s synonymous with the brand, while offering a fresh twist on some of its most recognizable elements.
Ganni Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear:
What was the deal with the silver cauldron bubbling away at the center of Ganni’s set? Handmade from recycled aluminum, it seemed to offer the most direct nod to Reffstrup’s witchy inspiration for the season. But forget about green-skinned, Halloween witches—Reffstrup was thinking more along the lines of “strong female empowerment.” The idea started out as playful, but as she delved deeper, she found herself fascinated by the community and sisterhood that surrounded witchcraft.
Vaquera Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear:
For spring, the focus was all about honing in on essentials—but of course, with their signature twist. Backstage, they dubbed these their “new basics,” showcasing a black bubble miniskirt with built-in bike shorts, bullet-bra tops (apparently having a moment this season), and jersey tees splashed with logos or bold graphics. Strapless bras stretched over button-downs gave a fetishy edge, and without them?