Two thousand origami birds hung above Thom Browne’s runway—fluttery and poetic, but don’t be fooled. The show kicked off with two models in head-to-toe gray, folding more birds at a table in the middle of the set. For a second, I thought we were getting a subdued, monochrome Thom moment. NOPE. Turns out this was one of his most colorful collections in ages—think candy-hued bird motifs and specially woven heritage tweeds bursting with life.
If New York Fashion Week felt a little meh this season, blame Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez. The Proenza Schouler co-founders exited the brand just three weeks before their usual fall show—leaving us all hanging. Rumor has it they’re headed to a European label (cue wild speculation), but in the meantime, the show must go on for the American house they launched 22 years ago.
On a snowy February night on the Upper East Side, the historic James B. Duke House was practically glowing pink. Outside, a woman in a giant bow (of course) leaned into a security guard, wide-eyed. “This the line for expedited passes?” He nodded. She looked down the street like she just realized she wasn’t the only one who wanted to play dress-up tonight.
In a classic LaQuan Smith curveball, his fall 2025 runway show was scrapped last minute—replaced by a more intimate setup at his Long Island City studio. There, he invited clients and buyers to cozy up to the collection (literally and figuratively). And while he promised more star-studded, fashion-meets-nightclub affairs in the future, this season was all about dialing in. “I needed to focus on the business—on the collection, the market,” Smith said. “I’m doing something a little different right now.” Different vibe? Sure. But the collection? Still 100% LaQuan: sexy, bold, and just the right amount of dangerous.
Kate Barton, a Gen Z’er to her core, knows exactly how her generation scrolls, clicks, and buys. Instead of a traditional runway show, she tapped her crew—including Winnie Harlow, Kysre Gondrezick, and Dee Ocleppo Hilfiger—to model her Fall 2025 collection straight to Instagram. “This season was all about showing real women and showing it through social media,” Barton explained. No bells, no whistles—just scroll-stopping looks.
Travel has always been fashion’s most seductive accomplice—the great enabler of reinvention, the ultimate aesthetic reset button. This season, Alejandra Alonso Rojas found herself spellbound in Japan. A family trip to Tokyo, Kyoto, Nara, and Osaka turned into something deeper than sightseeing; it became a study in precision, a meditation on craftsmanship. “I was just so struck by how well everyone dresses,” she said, still in awe.
At New York Fashion Week Fall 2025, Tory Burch unveiled a collection that reimagined American sportswear with inventive twists. Held at the Museum of Modern Art, the show featured models descending a grand staircase to an eerie techno soundtrack, setting a dramatic tone.
Zankov’s approach to design remains steadfastly his own—no moodboard theatrics, no blatant references, just pure, distilled craftsmanship. His Fall 2025 collection was yet another masterclass in color, texture, and technique, a signature triptych that continues to define his brand. There were whispers of Warhol’s Factory, but only in the most elusive, ephemeral way—quarter-sized paillettes on sweaters and skirts, shimmering beneath plush coats, conjuring an Edie Sedgwick night out at Paraphernalia before vanishing into something entirely Zankov’s.
Johnson Hartig’s fall collection came full circle—literally—when he unearthed watercolor sketches he had stashed away two decades ago, originally inspired by Sonia Delaunay. In a moment of cosmic coincidence, Delaunay is currently enjoying renewed attention, with exhibitions at Bard and the Guggenheim—though Hartig only realized the connection after committing to the theme. His vibrant, expressionist prints adorned jackets trimmed with candy-colored marabou, glittering crystal embellishments, and a knockout pair of Larroudé boots. The designs even translated into grayscale knit separates, proving that Libertine’s signature maximalism can take on many forms.
New York Fashion Week Fall 2025 kicked off with bold statements and sharp contrasts. Brandon Maxwell redefined American sportswear with sleek tailoring and effortless elegance. Collina Strada turned rebellion into fashion, blending florals, camouflage, and exaggerated movement. Khaite balanced cinematic drama with everyday wearability, delivering sharp silhouettes and strong tailoring. Ulla Johnson elevated her earthy aesthetic with crystal embellishments and electroplated floral accessories. Christopher Cowan embraced the avant-garde, turning chewed gum and high heels into statement pieces. Monse stayed true to its deconstructed, asymmetrical edge. Three days in, NYFW is proving that fashion’s future is as rebellious as it is refined.
