Richard Quinn Fall 2025
A grand Georgian façade, faux railings, Richard Quinn engraved above the door like it’s always been there. A fantasy in bricks and mortar. This winter’s set wasn’t just escapism—it was a scene. “It’s after midnight, the end of a private black-tie party,” Quinn explained, setting the tone like a director calling action. “Maybe it’s a pre-wedding dinner, maybe it’s the day after—and the guests are leaving. It’s snowing. The moon is up.”
Pauline Dujancourt Fall 2025
The worlds female designers build around themselves—these intricate, insular universes of memory, craft, and self-mythology—only seem to grow more expansive, more nuanced. Pauline Dujancourt spins hers from knitwear, a delicate lattice of pre-Raphaelite romanticism and obsessive handwork: fragile mohair webs, chiffon ribbons trailing like ivy, stitches so fine they barely exist. After years of quiet presentations, refining her whisper-soft sensibilities into something tangible, this was her first time on a London runway.
Mark Fast Fall 2025
London feels quiet this season—like the city took a deep breath and held it. And maybe that’s why Mark Fast is feeling nostalgic. He’s been here forever (or at least, since graduating from Central Saint Martins almost two decades ago), but this season? Something feels different. “I don’t know why,” he admitted during a preview. “Something is in the air.”
Which, obviously, sent me spiraling into the archives—because if a designer is having a feeling, you check if the clothes are, too. And, sure enough, Fall 2009 was staring back at me.
Dilara Findikoglu Fall 2025
Up until about a week ago, Dilara Findikoglu wasn’t even sure she had a venue. And then she did—a warehouse in the loosest, most lawless sense of the word. Technically, it hosts Slimelight, London’s longest-running goth club night. Realistically, it looked like a place where you might get shaken down for cigarettes or conscripted into an underground fight ring. Climbing the damp, cavernous stairs, you were greeted by a welcoming committee in the form of a Metropolitan Police notice: VICE PATROL OFFICERS OPERATE IN THIS AREA. OFFENDERS WILL BE PROSECUTED.
Perfect.
Di Petsa Fall 2025 Fall 2025
Dimitra Petsa has been deep in the trenches of love. Not just the saccharine, rom-com kind, but the all-consuming, boundary-blurring, body-worshipping kind—the stuff of erotic literature, Venus in Furs, divine sexuality, and feminist sexual theory. She’s been reading, obsessing, and writing—because of course, she’s writing a book. A whole book, coming out this year, dedicated to the very concept behind this collection: reclaiming female sexuality and desire, stripped of shame, on its own terms.
Central Saint Martins MA Fall 2025
Let’s be real—if London Fashion Week ever lost its spark, Central Saint Martins MA graduates would be the ones to reignite the flame. They basically are London fashion. No exaggeration. Fourteen alumni—across multiple generations—are showing this week. Roksanda, Simone Rocha, Mark Fast, Ashish, Richard Quinn… the list goes on. Then there’s the new guard: Paolo Carzana, Kazna Asker, Pauline Dujancourt, Jawara Alleyne, Charlie Constantinou, Yaku. And don’t forget the ones making waves off-runway with lookbooks—Steve O Smith, Stefan Cooke, Derrick. Alexander McQueen walked so they could run. And for decades now, CSM grads have been everywhere, tucked inside the design studios of the world’s biggest fashion houses—Kim Jones is just one name in an endless sea.