Acne Studios Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear:
Lyndon Chase’s exploration of domesticity, privacy, and those intimate “interior moments” really came through in a collection that felt like it borrowed its materials straight from home decor. The clothes seemed to challenge—or at least question—the usual codes of identity that fashion tends to reinforce. Much like furniture, the pieces started out as conventional but were twisted, manipulated, and exaggerated in a way that made them question their own existence.
Saint Laurent Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear:
The collection took us back to the essence of classic glamour, but with a sleek, modern edge that only Anthony Vaccarello could deliver. Held in a chilly, rain-slicked set in the courtyard of the company’s headquarters in Paris, the show radiated a Parisian coolness that’s synonymous with the brand, while offering a fresh twist on some of its most recognizable elements.
Ganni Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear:
What was the deal with the silver cauldron bubbling away at the center of Ganni’s set? Handmade from recycled aluminum, it seemed to offer the most direct nod to Reffstrup’s witchy inspiration for the season. But forget about green-skinned, Halloween witches—Reffstrup was thinking more along the lines of “strong female empowerment.” The idea started out as playful, but as she delved deeper, she found herself fascinated by the community and sisterhood that surrounded witchcraft.
Vaquera Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear:
For spring, the focus was all about honing in on essentials—but of course, with their signature twist. Backstage, they dubbed these their “new basics,” showcasing a black bubble miniskirt with built-in bike shorts, bullet-bra tops (apparently having a moment this season), and jersey tees splashed with logos or bold graphics. Strapless bras stretched over button-downs gave a fetishy edge, and without them?
Tom Ford SS 2025
Haider Ackermann’s buzz-worthy appointment as creative director of Tom Ford earlier this month may have made the interim, studio-produced collection at Milan feel a little less exciting, but its steady climb in the Vogue Runway rankings shows that the Tom Ford name still holds weight, even without a big-name designer steering the ship.
Bottega Veneta Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear:
This season’s collection was all about tapping into the magic of childhood. “I wanted to capture that sense of ‘wow,’ the wonder you feel as a kid trying something on for the first time,” Blazy explained. He likened it to a sort of primal introduction to fashion—those moments of raiding your parents’ wardrobe and discovering oversized jackets or mismatched items. The runway reflected this playful spirit, with oversized jackets, asymmetrical wrap skirts, and quirky pieces like a crinkled black tank dress or shirtdresses in khaki and navy that looked like they’d been scrunched up at the bottom of a toy chest, just waiting for a dress-up session.