Issey Miyake Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear:
There was an air of mindfulness at Issey Miyake’s show this morning. Set in a park pavilion, it was a short walk from the Loewe presentation, yet perfectly aligned with the collection’s theme. Guests sat on round stools crafted from compressed paper cylinders, a byproduct of the brand’s signature pleating process—a subtle nod to sustainability and the enduring appeal of Miyake’s designs.
Schiaparelli Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear:
Daniel Roseberry is having a moment. With fashion shifting away from the monotony of “quiet luxury” and algorithm-driven trends, the spotlight is back on eccentricity—a space where Roseberry thrives, as he’s repeatedly shown in his couture work for Schiaparelli. While ready-to-wear is a more recent venture for him at the house, and he’s been refining his approach over the past few seasons, it’s clear he’s still catering to bold, extroverted dressers. Even though he’s toned down the surrealist flair that defined Elsa Schiaparelli and which he enthusiastically embraced early on, his designs remain anything but understated.
Chloé Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear:
This collection marked a confident progression from her debut, introducing more laid-back elements—like high-waisted, flared jeans reminiscent of Phoebe Philo’s designs for the brand back in spring 2004, and a cheeky pink flamingo swimsuit that brought to mind the playful spirit of Stella McCartney’s era. These pieces feel like more approachable entry points to the brand than the intricate ruffles and lace seen on the celebrities and models in the front row. The little kitten-heel jelly sandals are also bound to be a big hit.
Rabanne Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear:
At Rabanne, the models strutted in pumps wrapped in clear plastic, like chic see-through rain boots, protecting their fancy footwear from the Parisian drizzle—a practical touch that matched the day’s weather.
Courreges Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear:
The invitation to Courrèges’ show was a sleek metal mobius strip, a subtle hint at Nicolas Di Felice’s spring collection. The concept of infinite loops was woven into the designs, where what seemed like separate pieces—like a tank dress paired with a bandeau—were actually one. Di Felice crafted these illusionary looks by creating halter-style dresses with a neck opening and a horizontal strap that wraps around the chest. Slip your head through, fasten the side snaps, and voilà—one seamless piece.
Dries Van Noten Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear:
Dries Van Noten’s departure from the runway after his final men’s show in June left a lasting impression, especially on his fellow designers and the many journalists who have grown to admire and wear his work over the years. Unlike the constant game of designer musical chairs, Van Noten stepping down feels more personal. While other big fashion houses are passed down to new creative directors tasked with reinventing legacies, none are trying to fill the shoes of a living founder.