Backstage at the Italian Stock Exchange, Fausto Puglisi contemplated the world’s less-than-happy state and the unsettling ubiquity of women on social media. Feeling the need for change, he embarked on a creative pivot.
Raf Simons asserts that any concept—whether loved, hated, silly, funny, sad, stupid, or political—can serve as a starting point. This season, their muse was an unexpected one: the bow. The runway debut featured a black shift dress adorned with dozens of bows. Subsequent iterations followed, including baby pink and deep purple versions. The bows appeared not only at the front but also graced the backs of skirts, juxtaposing sturdy tweed with embroidered silk.
In my inaugural season in New York, no fashion show left as indelible an impression as Oscar de la Renta’s. It exuded WASP-like opulence, an air of privilege, and a conservative allure. Stepping into that particular collection felt akin to entering an episode of ‘Dynasty.’
Just three weeks and two days ago, Adrian Appiolaza stepped into the role of creative director at Moschino. His arrival, however, is tinged with sadness due to the sudden passing of his predecessor, Davide Renne, shortly after assuming the position.
The MM6 show venue today exuded an unexpected elegance. The carpeted, hushed space, bathed in soft light, felt strangely comforting. Backstage, conversing with the design collective’s spokesperson, it all clicked into place.
Backstage chaos ensued after the Missoni show, and Filippo Grazioli shared, ‘I wanted to have some fun.’ And fun he certainly had. The collection exuded a lively spirit—almost effervescent. Throughout, bulbous, ballooning knitted tops and oversized donut collars in shaggy textures made frequent appearances.
In this collection, flannel dresses, bold skirts, and chic tops harmonize with austere coats and jackets in shades of blue, celebrating the spirit of empowered femininity. The runway promises a captivating blend of sophistication and liberation, echoing the timeless words of Colette’s protagonist: “I love my past. I love my present. I’m not ashamed of what I’ve had, and I’m not sad because I have it no longer”.
Jil Sander, under the creative direction of Luke and Lucie Meier, sought to evoke an “enveloping feeling” in their Fall collection. The designers’ quest for softness is understandable, especially given the tumultuous times we live in.
Over the past few weeks, Sabato De Sarno’s inaugural Gucci collection has begun its journey to stores and beyond. During a recent meeting at the brand’s headquarters, he observed a woman at an art gallery wearing the lime green coat adorned with crystal fringes from the previous season—a statement piece priced at a staggering 27,000 euros.
Giorgio Armani, with a nonchalant shrug, declared, “I am me. The others are the others,” following his morning show. When conceptualizing my collections, I focus on the women I encounter everywhere, devoid of intellectual or sexual provocation.
