In my inaugural season in New York, no fashion show left as indelible an impression as Oscar de la Renta’s. It exuded WASP-like opulence, an air of privilege, and a conservative allure. Stepping into that particular collection felt akin to entering an episode of ‘Dynasty.’
Just three weeks and two days ago, Adrian Appiolaza stepped into the role of creative director at Moschino. His arrival, however, is tinged with sadness due to the sudden passing of his predecessor, Davide Renne, shortly after assuming the position.
The MM6 show venue today exuded an unexpected elegance. The carpeted, hushed space, bathed in soft light, felt strangely comforting. Backstage, conversing with the design collective’s spokesperson, it all clicked into place.
Backstage chaos ensued after the Missoni show, and Filippo Grazioli shared, ‘I wanted to have some fun.’ And fun he certainly had. The collection exuded a lively spirit—almost effervescent. Throughout, bulbous, ballooning knitted tops and oversized donut collars in shaggy textures made frequent appearances.
In this collection, flannel dresses, bold skirts, and chic tops harmonize with austere coats and jackets in shades of blue, celebrating the spirit of empowered femininity. The runway promises a captivating blend of sophistication and liberation, echoing the timeless words of Colette’s protagonist: “I love my past. I love my present. I’m not ashamed of what I’ve had, and I’m not sad because I have it no longer”.
Jil Sander, under the creative direction of Luke and Lucie Meier, sought to evoke an “enveloping feeling” in their Fall collection. The designers’ quest for softness is understandable, especially given the tumultuous times we live in.
Over the past few weeks, Sabato De Sarno’s inaugural Gucci collection has begun its journey to stores and beyond. During a recent meeting at the brand’s headquarters, he observed a woman at an art gallery wearing the lime green coat adorned with crystal fringes from the previous season—a statement piece priced at a staggering 27,000 euros.
Giorgio Armani, with a nonchalant shrug, declared, “I am me. The others are the others,” following his morning show. When conceptualizing my collections, I focus on the women I encounter everywhere, devoid of intellectual or sexual provocation.
In his fall 2024 collection, designer Giuliano Calza presented a more introspective take on pop-infused fashion. Contrary to what the title might imply, there were no sexual undertones; instead, Calza delved into childhood memories and experiences.
Throughout his three-year tenure at Fendi, Kim Jones has remained steadfastly devoted to a singular muse: Delfina Delettrez Fendi, scion of the house. Prior to this afternoon’s show, Jones enthusiastically reaffirmed this stance, declaring, ‘I will always say that. Because she is just so chic and because of the way she dresses. And when you put it all together, it’s about the idea of function in life.’
