Sacai Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear:
As I waited for the Sacai show to kick off, it was clear that the brand had evolved from being a niche, insider favorite to a global powerhouse. The front row, packed with rising stars draped in Chitose Abe’s avant-garde creations, was proof enough. As a long-time admirer, I couldn’t help but feel a mix of pride and a little possessiveness over seeing the brand grow so much.
Gabriela Hearst Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear:
A year ago, Gabriela Hearst was celebrating her final show at Chloé with a joyful dance on the Seine alongside models and members of Brazil’s Mangueira samba school. During her three-year tenure as creative director, she steered the French fashion house toward a more eco-conscious path, even achieving B Corp certification for the Richemont-owned brand. Fast forward to today, and Hearst is back in Paris, now showcasing her own label and continuing her earth-centered narrative, drawing connections between goddess worship, the respect for nature, and the empowerment of women.
Valentino Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear:
Michele transformed the vast basement of the arena into a dreamy, otherworldly space. Loveseats, chairs, and ottomans were draped in dust covers, sitting atop cracked mirrored floors, along with armoires and oversized bird cages, creating a scene that felt like wandering through an old mansion, uncovering forgotten treasures or awakening old ghosts. Michele, ever fond of metaphors—both visual and literal—set the mood with ambient music filling the space as familiar faces like Elton John, Harry Styles, Florence Welch, Coleman Domingo, and Damiano David from Maneskin gathered.
Mcqueen Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear:
Seán McGirr’s second collection for Alexander McQueen opened with a sharply tailored suit, its lapels rolled together at the chest, as if bracing against an unexpected London downpour—or perhaps a metaphorical storm from critics. McGirr faced heavy scrutiny after his debut last season, stepping into the shoes of Sarah Burton, who had not only been Lee Alexander McQueen’s right hand but had led the brand with great success for over a decade. The Irish designer’s introduction was bound to be difficult, and the choice of a remote warehouse in Paris for his first show, combined with a chilly, rainy journey, didn’t help win him immediate favor.
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear:
The collection, titled *Calibrate*, marked a notable shift for Andreas Kronthaler. For the first time since fall 2014, it focused entirely on womenswear, moving away from the gender-fluid offerings that had defined the line. Kronthaler emphasized this new direction, explaining, “These are clothes designed for women, not men.” Unlike previous collections, this one didn’t rely heavily on historical references, save for a few subtle period elements. “For once, it’s just about the clothes—clothes that symbolize a strong, feminine woman, which is what we need more than ever right now,” Kronthaler said.
Ottolinger Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear:
Just minutes before the Ottolinger show, co-founder Christa Bösch was spotted backstage on her knees, snipping away at the hem of a long black dress. Meanwhile, out on the runway, a massive, beached shark with a bloodied mouth created a dramatic scene, marking the exit for the models. Despite its ominous appearance, the shark wasn’t meant to be gory or grotesque.