Etro Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear:
At Etro’s show, the runway was lined with these massive cast-iron and concrete agaves, all in full bloom—a pretty striking nod to a plant that flowers only once before dying off. It’s a bit poetic, right?
At Etro’s show, the runway was lined with these massive cast-iron and concrete agaves, all in full bloom—a pretty striking nod to a plant that flowers only once before dying off. It’s a bit poetic, right?
The Marni show unfolded in the brand’s headquarters, an expansive and minimalist space bathed in moody, dark red lighting. Unlike the usual chaos of fashion week, there were no throngs of screaming fans vying for a glimpse of celebrities. Instead, a maze of seemingly random chairs surrounded three sleek black grand pianos, creating a disorienting yet intimate atmosphere.
We began with airy drop-waist dresses, adorned with Art Deco motifs and pearl-trimmed botanical reliefs. While there were some fringed hems, these weren’t retro flapper pieces. Instead, Jones pared down the shapes and modernized the necklines, giving them a '90s slip dress vibe or even a touch of sportswear influence.
This collection took a deliberate step away from the whimsical touches we’ve come to expect—gone were the duck hats and hot water bottles, replaced by a sharper focus on practical, marketable pieces. The iconic Burberry trench coat elements—storm flaps, epaulettes, shoulder vents, Napoleon collars, and belts—were cleverly reimagined across various garments, from open-backed dresses to twinsets dotted with poppers, and cropped jackets with feathered collars.
The Marques'Almeida Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear collection took a bold dive into the past, pulling from 17th and 18th-century influences and reworking them with a modern twist. Unveiled at London Fashion Week, Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida looked to Baroque art and Dutch paintings, weaving this historical richness into the fabrics and details that made the collection stand out.
In 1982, Agnes Denes made headlines by planting a wheat field in downtown Manhattan. The image of her standing among the wheat, with skyscrapers towering behind her, still carries a powerful message. "Her work speaks to the industrialization and obsession with wealth, Wall Street’s dominance, and how everything seemed to be moving in one direction," Ilincic said before her show.
The KNWLS Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear collection at London Fashion Week was an intense fusion of boldness and modern femininity. Designers Charlotte Knowles and Alexandre Arsenault delivered a lineup that straddled the line between urban streetwear and high fashion, giving us pieces that were edgy yet undeniably elegant. The collection's striking contrasts—structured silhouettes set against delicate fabrics—created a fresh, almost rebellious energy.
At first glance, JW Anderson's latest show seemed stripped down to its essentials, with a parade of minimalist mini-silhouettes. The collection featured familiar shapes—tiny sweaters, sweatshirts, and bombers—paired with more abstract leather tutu-dresses, all grounded by the same leather shoe-boot with a snub toe. The materials were limited to just four: cashmere, leather, silk, and sequins.
Simone Rocha’s Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear collection was a poetic exploration of contrasts, showcasing her signature blend of delicate romanticism and underlying strength. Unveiled at London Fashion Week, the collection was a celebration of femininity, but not in a purely traditional sense—there was a tension between fragility and resilience that ran through each piece, giving the collection an emotional depth that felt both haunting and beautiful.
Summer may have officially ended, but the warm weather in London lingered just long enough for Marco Capaldo to debut a sun-drenched, carefree collection perfect for stretching the summer vibe into September—or, technically, spring 2025.